Guest Speakers: Cosmetic Science & Formulation Design
- Tony Backer
- Mark Chandler
- Kapal Dewan
- Dr. Trefor Evans
- Valerie George
- Andrew Hartman
- Tresha Heath
- Julian Paul Hewitt
- Jane Hollenberg
- Gopa Majmudar
- Kenneth Markowitz, DDS, MSD
- Bart Maxon
- Tony O'Lenick
- Frank C. Pagano, Ph.D.
- Steve Patton
- Hillary Phillis
- Di Qu, Ph.D.
- Perry Romanowski
- Michael Starch
- Mark Stucky
- Mark White
Mr. Backer graduated in 2013 with a BS in Chemistry from the University of Indianapolis. Upon graduating, I started working as an R&D Chemist at Eli Lilly in downtown Indianapolis. Wanting a change from the repetitiveness of benchtop chemistry, I began to explore other options. The position of Technical and Regulatory Associate at Kenra Professional caught my attention. Nearly 2 years later, I have become fully immersed in the world of haircare. In my time here at Kenra, I have been able to take part in the entire development of new products from start to finish. I have assisted in revolutionizing the claims testing and methods performed at Kenra, constantly looking for new methods to showcase the superiority of our products. During our international product launch, I was involved through the entirety of the regulatory process, expanding my knowledge on which claims are allowed in the EU. Starting in August, I will be taking on the role of Associate Manager of Testing and Test Salon, Henkel R&D North America. Our main focus will be testing and evaluating new formulas and establishing product claims for all of Henkel Beauty North America.
Mark Chandler is the President of ACT Solutions Corp (Adaptive Cosmetic Technology Solutions) www.ACTSolutionsCorp.com, a consultancy focusing on Adaptive Aesthetic Design™, Advanced Emulsion Solutions, and Formulating for Efficacy™. Mark has been in the industry since 1984, most recently serving as Skin Care Applications Manager for Croda, Inc. For 15 years, Mark has taught the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Cosmetic Formulation course, in addition to instructing on emulsions for the Center for Professional Advancement and instructing the Cosmetic Raw Materials and Low Energy Emulsification courses for the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. He lectures for the Cosmetic Science program and serves on the Pharmaceutical Sciences Board at the University of Toledo. Mark has given technical presentations throughout the U.S. and in more than a dozen other countries in North America, South America, Europe, Asia, and Australia; he has written numerous technical articles and two book chapters, and he has three patents.
Kapal Dewan is a Team Leader in the Office of Cosmetics and Colors (OCAC) at United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA), where she oversees compliance-related activities for cosmetics to ensure that products marketed in the USA comply with FDA laws and regulations. Mrs. Dewan provides leadership of team activities related to the development of scientific review, policies, guidance, and regulations of cosmetic products. She is involved in training and mentoring new employees on cosmetics science and regulations. Mrs. Dewan is actively involved in FDA’s Nanotechnology Task Force activities and plays a key role in coordinating and leading nanotechnology initiatives at OCAC. She is the lead author of cosmetics nanotechnology guidance titled “Safety of Nanomaterials in Cosmetics.” Ms. Dewan is also a member of FDA’s Genetox Network Group, the Association of Government Toxicologists, the Genetic Toxicology Association, and the Society of Toxicology. Prior to joining FDA Mrs. Dewan worked for ICF International, DuPont Bristol-Myers Squibb, and Merck. She has a dual career, having worked as a clinical geneticist with Christiana Health Care Systems for 10 years.
Mrs. Dewan has a B.S. in biology from Patna University and an M.S. in biology with an emphasis in genetics from Science College, Patna, Bihar, India. She has conducted three years of post-graduate research in genetics at Delhi University. Ms. Dewan is a certified clinical laboratory specialist in cytogenetics [CLsp (CG)].
Dr. Trefor Evans has worked in the Hair Care industry for almost 25 years. The majority of this time was spent as a scientist and manager in the product development labs of large consumer goods companies (Unilever, Helene Curtis); he joined TRI in 2007 where he served as Director of Measurement Services for 5 years. He now holds the title Institute Fellow and is responsible for TRI’s Research Program. He also operates his own consultancy company, TA Evans Inc.
Dr. Evans is highly active in the hair care industry through many working relationships with companies of all shape, size and background. He is a regular presenter at International hair conferences and has been an invited speaker at many technical meetings and symposia. Most recently he served as Chairman of the 6th International Conference on Applied Hair Science in Princeton, NJ. He has published numerous articles in trade magazines and the scientific literature and is co-author and co-editor of the book “Practical Modern Hair Science” by Allured Books. He writes a regular column on hair testing and hair science for Cosmetics and Toiletries and serves on the magazine’s Scientific Advisory Board. He is also a member of the Expert Reviewing Panel for the Journal of Cosmetic Science.
Dr. Evans possesses a Ph.D. in physical-analytical chemistry from the University of Toledo and he has spent his career using measurement science to support the development, launch and maintenance of many international cosmetic products and brands. These approaches are also at the heart of fundamental research programs that have twice been awarded by the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. A longstanding familiarity with the industry’s common testing methods has led to progressively more and more activity in the area of hair care product claim substantiation and he is commonly asked to consult and advise in this area.
Dr. Evans regularly teaches training classes on the topics of hair science and hair care product claims which have been held in both the US and Europe.
Valerie Patton George joined John Paul Mitchell Systems in 2013 as a senior chemist in salon professional and reactive products, working on the latest research in hair color. She loves her job as a "cosmetics detective" and thinks troubleshooting problems in formulas is challenging and fun. Valerie is a graduate of Kent State University, receiving a Bachelor of Science in Biological Chemistry before continuing graduate work in chemistry at Marshall University. She began her cosmetic chemistry career in makeup in 2010 and has been an active member of the California Society of Cosmetic Chemists since 2011. Valerie was most recently the 2016 Chair and was again elected to be the 2018 Chair. She was appointed to the Committee on Scientific Affairs for the National Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is an Advisory Board Member for the College of Arts & Sciences at Kent State University. She has been featured in a variety of industry trade publications, including Happi, GCI Magazine, and Cosmetics Design. Valerie currently resides in Los Angeles with her husband and two adorable dogs.
Andrew Hartman has worked in the life sciences industry for over 7 years and began his work at Nelson Laboratories in Utah where he worked as an Account Manager in the sales department. He has helped hundreds of companies get their products to market by consulting on required microbiology tests required for FDA or international submissions. Andrew then moved on to Antimicrobial Test Labs and Cosmetic Test Labs where he was the Business Development Manager, in charge of consulting and quoting necessary tests for EPA or FDA submissions. Andrew now works for ACT Solutions Corp where he consults on quality, regulatory affairs and microbiology testing for cosmetics and personal care products, including preservative, stability and USP 61/62 testing.
Andrew received his Bachelor’s of Science degree in Business Management from West Chester University and is now enrolled in the Regulatory Affairs graduate program at Utah Valley University. After completion of the certificate in December, Andrew plans on continuing his education for a Master’s degree in Regulatory Science from John’s Hopkins University.
Tresha Heath is the founder of Make Me Makeup. She is also a widely respected and award-winning celebrity makeup artist and entrepreneur in the fashion, entertainment, and beauty industry. After 20 years of experience with the world’s top creatives, talent, and brands, Tresha has developed a customizable, universal, proprietary color system that is tonally balanced and looks good on everyone.
As a celebrity makeup artist, Tresha has worked with an A-list roster of actors, athletes, models, and musicians including Kristin Davis, Michael Jordan, Paris Hilton, and Eminem. She has also created, brought to market, and licensed multiple health and beauty products with top brands. Her work as been featured in top fashion magazines. She has appeared on major TV networks as a contributor, and consulted for top spas, plastic surgeons, and cosmetics companies.
Julian Hewitt is a leading expert on the formulation, development and testing of sunscreen products, with over 20 years of experience in this field.
Julian graduated from Oxford University in 1988 with a BA Honours Degree in Chemistry. After graduating, he joined Tioxide, working on new product development from 1988 to 1991. In 1991, he joined Tioxide's Solaveil* Business, as Applications Research and Technical Service Manager for physical sunscreen products. He remained with the Solaveil* business as it moved from Tioxide to ICI Performance Chemicals, then to Uniqema when the latter was formed in 1999. Julian was promoted to ICI’s Science Ladder as the company’s sun care Technical Expert, and from 2002 served as an adviser to Uniqema’s Sales & Marketing, Product Development, and Technical Service teams. He continued in this role after Uniqema was purchased by Croda in 2006.
During this time, Julian represented Uniqema / Croda as the main customer technical focus for sun care products, developed and delivered training programmes for both internal and external audiences, and guided the development and launch of innovative new sun care ingredients.
Julian left Croda in October 2011 and formed JPH SunCare Technologies, providing technical consultancy services, regulatory advice, and training to manufacturers of UV protection products and suppliers of ingredients used in such products.
Julian has presented papers and posters at over 30 conferences in venues across the World, and in particular has been a frequent speaker at the Florida SCC Sunscreen Symposium and the London Sun Protection Conference. In 2008, he won the Lester Conrad Award for the Best Paper at the Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists annual conference in Surfers Paradise, Queensland. He has also written or co-authored more than 30 articles and 5 book chapters on formulating sunscreens, in-vitro SPF testing, and nanotechnology.
*Solaveil is a registered trademark of the Croda group of companies
Jane Hollenberg has over forty years’ experience in the cosmetic industry, working with skin care and color cosmetic products at Coty, Revlon, and Merck KGaA. Since 1996, she has operated JCH Consulting to provide services in the formulation, scale up, and troubleshooting of pigmented and non-pigmented formulations. She has taught in the continuing education program of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Fairleigh Dickenson University, and the Center for Professional Advancement. Jane is a three time recipient of the Alan Black Memorial Award granted annually by the US Society of Cosmetic Chemists for the best paper concerning color cosmetic formulation and is a fellow of the SCC.
Jane is a current member and past chairman of the Personal Care Product Council's Color Additive Committee, dedicated to assisting the cosmetic industry in conforming to world wide regulations and increasing the level of technical competence.
Surface treatment of pigments and fillers and the application of silicone technology to the field of color cosmetics are areas of ongoing interest which have resulted in a number of patents. Jane believes the objective of formulation is to develop products whose structure and composition improves the condition and appearance of the skin.
Dr. Gopa Majmudar is a manager of the Advanced Imaging and Measurement (AIM) group at Amway. She has worked as a scientist and manager at companies such as Mary Kay, Alberto Culver in the R&D Department. There, she was actively involved in anti-aging and skin pigmentation research, looking for and evaluating new technologies, developing new biophysical methods and conducting clinical studies to support skin care, color and hair care products' claims. She provided her expertise and guidance in clinical studies and claims substantiation areas. Dr. Majmudar was a Chair and Co-chair of Committee of Scientific Affairs (COSA); National Society of Cosmetic Chemists from 1997 -2000. She was also a member of the Advisory Committee in Collin County Community College's Biotechnology division based in Plano, Texas from 1998 to 2005.Dr. Majmudar obtained her M.S. and Ph.D. degrees in Microbiology from the M. S. University of Baroda, India. She is a recipient of the prestigious Jawaharlal Nehru Award (gold medal) from the Government of India in recognition for her research work done during her Ph.D. dissertation. She also received fellowships and grants for conducting cancer research at the National Cancer Institute (NCI), Bethesda, USA, Jacques Monod Institute, Molecular and Cell Biology lab, Paris, France, Howard Hughes Medical Institute and at the Department of Dermatology at the University of Michigan, Ann Arbor, USA. She has presented and published several scientific papers in high impact peer reviewed journals and holds several patents. She enjoys sharing her knowledge and nurturing the next generation of scientists.
Kenneth Markowitz, DDS, MSD obtained his dental degree from Columbia University in 1985 and his Masters of Dental Science from RSDM in 2009. While in dental school, he became interested in tooth sensitivity, dental pain and oral physiology. From 1991-2003, he did research in industry, first at the Block Drug Company Inc., then at GalaxoSmithKline. In industry, he and his coworkers investigated the ability of various materials such as polymers and colloids to reduce dentin permeability and other areas of dental therapeutics. In 2003, he joined the Oral Biology Department at the University of Medicine and Dentistry of New Jersey (now Rutgers). At Rutgers, he serves as a clinical investigator on a number of NIDCR and Industry-funded projects, including a longitudinal study of bacterial risk factors and inflammatory markers of localized aggressive periodontal disease as well as clinical trials of oral antimicrobial agents. Together with other members of the department, he has developed laboratory and animal models used to study dental diseases. Much of his work concerns the critical appraisal and clinical application of devices used to diagnose caries and assess caries risk. Dr. Markowitz has conducted a longitudinal study of occlusal caries in adolescents. He has collaborators at other universities with whom he has examined tooth pain mechanisms and therapies.
At Rutgers, he has played a key role in developing and teaching the school’s new curriculum in evidence based dentistry. He teaches other course materials relating to: oral biology, cariology, dental pharmacology and dental pain. He also teaches clinical and pre-clinical restorative dentistry and practice general dentistry at the school’s faculty practice.
Bart Maxon is a Senior Industry Specialist for Dow Corning Corporation. He has over 30 years of experience in the personal care, healthcare and medical diagnostics industries and has been with Dow Corning for over 20+ years in a variety of roles within their Beauty Care and Health Care businesses. Some different areas of experience at DC include formulation development of skin care and topical pharmaceutical excipients; wound care; transdermal drug delivery (TDDS); and medical antifoams/fluids. Prior to Dow Corning, Bart was with McIntyre Group (responsible for surfactant product development), Abbott Laboratories-Diagnostics Division (in-vitro immunoassay development for therapeutic and abused drug toxicology testing); and Michigan Molecular Institute/Dendritech (responsible for bio-conjugation of antibodies/proteins and fluorescent tracers to Starburst Dendrimers for biomedical applications). Bart holds 11 patents and has a Bachelor of Science Degree- Biology from Central Michigan University and a second Bachelor of Science in Chemistry from Northeastern Illinois University. Bart is the Senior Area II Director for the Society of Cosmetic Chemists.
Tony O’Lenick is President of Siltech LLC. in Lawrenceville, Ga., a company he co-founded in 1989. Siltech is a silicone specialty company. Prior to that he held technical and executive positions at various surfactant and specialty chemicals companies including; Lambent Technologies, Alkaril Chemicals Inc, Henkel Corporation and Mona Industries. He has been involved in the surfactant and silicone industry for over 35 years.
Tony has written 5 books in various aspects of surfactant, silicone and organic chemistry, also published over 70 technical articles in trade journals, contributed chapters to six books, and is the inventor on over 300 patents. He teaches a course in silicone chemistry, surfactant chemistry and patent law. He has received a number of awards for work including the 1996 Samuel Rosen Award given by the American Oil Chemists’ Society, the 1997 Innovative Use of Fatty Acids Award given by the Soap and Detergents Association, and the Partnership to The Personal Care Award given by the Advanced Technology Group. Tony is a fellow in the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, and in the American Institute of Chemists. Tony was a member of several committees in SCC including the Committee on Scientific Affairs, the Continuing Education Committee, and has served the SCC National as Treasurer, Vice President Elect, Vice President and 2015 National President.
Dr. Frank Pagano joined ACT Solutions Corp. in February, 2014. He retired at the end of 2013 after spending almost eight years with Chanel. Frank has been in the industry since 1994 when he joined Revlon. Prior to that Frank had a varied career covering inks and printing (where he learned about color and color theory), as well as plant process chemistry and additives for engine lubricants.
While at Chanel, Frank worked in the Prospective Research Group developing new concept products for skin care, makeup and sun protection products. This included identifying new raw materials and technologies which could have use in these products. One of Frank’s skin care formulations was selected to be included in Chanel’s new skin care line – Le Lift. He also was involved in the identification and evaluation of new natural preservatives.
Frank spent 10 years at Revlon working primarily in the nail polish group supporting and maintaining the existing product lines while investigating new raw materials and technologies for nail polish and lip color. This included working with marketing and manufacturers. Frank is the co-inventor of Colorstay Nail Enamel and contributed to other patents while at Revlon.
Frank received his B.A. in Chemistry from Rutgers University in New Brunswick, NJ and his Ph.D. in Organic Chemistry with an emphasis in Photochemistry from Columbia University in New York City. He has authored two articles on nail polish for C&T Magazine and is presently working on a third.
In October 2016, Steve Patton was named Technical Manager for the Personal Care market segment at Wacker Chemical Corporation, the North American headquarters of the Germany-based silicones supplier, Wacker Chemie AG.
After graduating from Michigan State University with a BS in Chemical Engineering, Steve joined Wacker to help oversee the production of silicone rubber products. Shortly after, he transitioned to the Performance Silicones business unit as a process chemist to improve the production quality of silicone oils and emulsions, two product groups that are vital to the enhancement of several personal care products. His next position, R&D Chemist for the Household Care and Textiles groups, would spark his interest in new formulations and successful product launches.
He is new to the field of cosmetics, but is enthusiastically utilizing his previous silicones experience by working with world-leading companies to introduce improved formulations into the market.
Steve is also a member of Wacker’s internship committee. In this position he is a champion of the University of Toledo’s Cosmetic Science program, and hopes to continue a strong relationship with the program in the future.
Hillary Phillis is an enthusiastic, passionate recent graduate pursuing her first job in the Cosmetic Industry. Her most beneficial preparation for her start in the industry was her experience at the University of Toledo in the Cosmetic Science and Formulation Design program. Now, as a self-diagnosed product junkie she is able to utilize her consumer perception coupled with her science background as the Marketing Manager at Active Concepts, LLC. Responsibilities within her role at Active Concepts, LLC include: collaborate with the R&D team to design, develop and introduce new products, determine suitable efficacy testing for optimal product marketability, research industry trends and materials to forecast consumer product needs and desires, use technical expertise to provide support for the sales team, North American distributors and customers, design marketing literature, and identify opportunities to bring innovation to existing marketing practices and materials.
Hillary proudly received her dual Bachelor of Science in Pharmaceutical Sciences in Pharmaceutics and Cosmetic Science & Formulation Design with a dual minor in Chemistry and Biology at the University of Toledo.
Dr. Di Qu is currently a senior principal research scientist in R&D of Amway Corporation. He obtained his Ph.D. degree in chemical and biochemical engineering from Rutgers University in 1992, his M.S. from China National Research Institute of Food and & Fermentation Industries in 1985, and B.S. from Tianjin University of Science and Technology in 1982. Dr. Qu has worked in R&D capacities for 27 years with 4 years in biotechnology research in China, and 23 years in consumer product development at Amway. His industrial experiences include skin care product formulation, process development, as well as skin property and product efficacy testing. He has given numerous technical presentations at various industry and academic conferences and holds 7 U.S. patents.
Dr. Qu is the current chair of the Michigan Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists, and a member of the International Society for Biophysics and Imaging of the Skin. His most recent publication is on Skin Youthfulness Index – a mathematical model correlating age and the visual properties of skin.
Perry Romanowski has spent the past 20+ years researching and developing products to solve consumer problems in the personal care and cosmetic industry. His primary focus has been on formulating hair-related products. He is currently vice president of Brains Publishing, which specializes in science education and is responsible for the consumer-focused beauty website, TheBeautyBrains.com, and the cosmetic science website, ChemistsCorner.com.
Previously, Romanowski worked for Alberto Culver, serving as a senior project leader for hair care innovation. He has been an active member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) and is currently the Area II National Director. In addition, he has served in various positions within the Midwest Chapter of the SCC, including chapter chair.
Romanowski earned his B.S. in Chemistry from DePaul University and his M.S. in Biochemistry. He has written and edited numerous articles and books. His latest book is"It's OK to Have Lead in Lipstick". He also teaches the SCC’s Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry continuing education class. Additionally, he provides consulting services for cosmetic formulating, testing and Internet solutions. He can be reached through his website,www.ChemistsCorner.com.
Michael Starch has worked in the personal care industry for over 35 years and has experience working on both the raw material and finished product sides of the business. He worked 26 years at the Dow Corning Corporation, a leading supplier of silicones for the personal care industry. At Dow Corning, he worked in product development, technical service, and application development. Michael also worked for seven years at Kao Brands (formerly the Andrew Jergens Company) in skin care product research and development. Michael joined the International Nomenclature Committee (INC) when he worked at Dow Corning. Since retiring, he has remained on the committee as a paid consultant. He has been a member of the INC for 18 years.
In 2011, Michael retired from Dow Corning and started a consulting business (Wintermute Consulting Services). He advises clients on silicone chemistry, application development, INCI nomenclature, and strategies for introducing new raw materials into the personal care industry.
Mr. Stucky is currently the Director of Research and Development for Kenra Professional and will transition into Head of Professional Open R&D and Regulatory, R&D Henkel Beauty Care Hair Professional North America. He graduated in 1998 from Butler University with a B.S. in Chemistry and spent 13 years working at Roche working with Pharmaceutical and Diagnostic product, where he learned how to be a scientist and how to work with the FDA/DEA/and other government agencies. After Roche, he was given the opportunity to work at Kenra Professional, working within the supply chain group, designing and implementing the quality program and outsourcing their claims testing. In 2013, he created a Technical Testing/R&D group, which internally performs 95% of Kenra's claims testing, ensures global compliance for their products, performs all of their benchmark testing, while overseeing the R&D for the three different Kenra Professional brands. In his six years at Kenra Professional, Mr. Stucky has been fortunate to help develop multiple care/styling products, a full service color line, and a smoothing system.
Mark White is a Senior Packaging Engineer at Amway Corporation with 25 years of experience in personal care and cosmetic packaging. He has supported multiple Artistry product launches utilizing a wide variety of packaging types and materials. These packaging types include airless packaging, propel repel packaging, flexible packaging, glass packaging, rigid plastic packaging and metal packaging. He has worked in both the package design department as well as the manufacturing engineering department. He was responsible for the initial plant startup of the personal care products at the new Artistry China plant. He has a BS in Packaging Engineering from Michigan State University.
Shontell Wright was a chemist in the Office of Cosmetics and Colors (OCAC) at the Food and Drug Administration, where she is the administrator of FDA’s Voluntary Cosmetic Registration Program (VCRP). Her current responsibilities include managing daily operations; answering questions from program users, problem solving and troubleshooting program related issues, and making changes to the program that improve its efficiency and operation. In this role, she also assists the Cosmetic Ingredient Review process by preparing frequency of use reports of cosmetic ingredients from the VCRP. Ms. Wright is a FDA’s non-voting liaison on the International Cosmetic Ingredient Nomenclature Committee (INC), sponsored by the Personal Care Products Council.
As a member of OCAC, she regularly provides advice and guidance to consumers, industry, and other public health officials on cosmetic regulations and labeling. Ms. Wright is an active member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) where she previously held the position of secretary and currently holds the position of treasurer for the Mid- Atlantic Chapter. She received her B.S. degree in Chemistry from Morgan State University in Baltimore, MD and her M.S. degree in Analytical Chemistry from the University of Toledo in Ohio, with an emphasis on the application of analytical techniques to cosmetic and pharmaceutical analytical problems. Ms. Wright has been a licensed cosmetologist for over 20 years.